DOG FEEDING INFO


  • Commercial Dog Foods
  • Selecting the best commercial foods
  • Canned Foods and Refrigerated or Frozen Cooked Foods
  • Dry Foods (Kibble and Dehydrated)
  • Supplements to add if you're feeding a commercial diet
  • Adding Fresh Foods to a commercial diet
  • Dog Food Mixes to which you add meat and other ingredients
  • Frozen Raw Food Products
  • Widely Distributed
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  • Specialty Products
  • Raw Food Co-ops and Local Groups
  • Balancing a Homemade Diet
  • Home Feeding References with links to books and web sites
  • Raw Feeding Seminars and Talks
  • Click here for information on diet and supplements for specific medical conditions.

    COMMERCIAL DOG FOODS

    How to select the best commercial foods

    Here are the things that I look for in a commercial food::

    SEE ALSO:
    Selecting a Commercial Pet Food for a more in-depth analysis of what to look for in a commercial food.
    The Dog Food Project and Dog Food Analysis offer in-depth information on commercial foods.
    Dog Food Comparison Tool from Natura that allows you to see and compare the ingredients in different foods, plus offers in-depth information on each ingredient if you click on it.
    Pet Food Labels: What You Don’t See is Important! has more information on how to compare different foods.
    How to Choose Dog Food article from The Whole Dog Journal is available online and gives some additional "food for thought."
    Earl Wolfe's Dog Food Comparison Charts have both generic and specific ingredient info on almost all foods.
    You can also read about the ingredients that go into poor quality pet foods in Food Even a Dog Shouldn't Eat and get more information from the article What's Really in Pet Food?

    Note that I am not overly concerned about menadione, a synthetic form of vitamin K that has many people worried (see The Dog Food Project, for example). See the section on Menadione in one of my articles on homemade diets for more information on this topic.

    Best Diet
    There is no "best" food for all dogs, as each dog is an individual, and what works well for one dog may not work at all for another. In addition, it is better for a dog to get a variety of foods, rather than just one food for its whole life. Feeding different commercial diets can help fill in nutritional gaps that a particular food or brand might have, as well as making it less likely that your dog will develop food allergies.

    Rather than trying to find a single, "best" food, I recommend that you choose at least two or three different brands, using different protein sources, and rotate between them, anywhere from a daily basis to every few months. Variety is always better than feeding any single food, as it helps to guarantee that all of your dogs' nutritional needs are met and is more interesting for your dogs. The only warning I have about feeding a lot of variety is to not feed every exotic protein available (duck, rabbit, venison, etc.); always reserve one or two in case you ever need to do an elimination diet using a food your dog has never had before to test for food allergies.

    In addition, I suggest adding some fresh foods to the diet, no matter what you feed, including eggs and meat (raw or cooked), canned fish with bones (jack mackerel, pink salmon, sardines), dairy (yogurt, kefir, cottage cheese) and healthy leftovers (see Adding Fresh Foods below for more info). This can be used to improve the quality of whatever diet you feed.

    When you feed the same food continuously for a month or more, be sure to make the switch gradually to avoid digestive upset, but dogs that are used to getting different foods all the time rarely have any problems with it.

    Exotic proteins and limited ingredient diets
    Just a note about using foods with exotic proteins, such as duck, venison, buffalo, rabbit, trout, kangaroo, ostrich, emu, beaver, goat, quail, pheasant, eel, etc. These foods are formulated to be able to offer proteins that a dog has never had before for dogs with food allergies. I do not recommend feeding them to healthy dogs who have no allergies. If you feed these foods routinely, then if your dog does develop food allergies in the future, it is going to be very difficult for you to find a protein that he has never had before in order to try an elimination diet. I would reserve most of these exotic protein foods for dogs who  have food problems and need a special diet. Also, if you have a dog with digestive problems, don't just keep trying different foods, as they are more likely to become allergic to new ingredients while problems are occurring. If the first new diet doesn't work, you'll need to talk to your vet about using medications to get the problem under control before introducing any more new foods.

    Corn, wheat, soy and other so-called common allergens
    Foods considered to be "common allergens" for dogs are simply the foods most commonly fed. In other words, dogs are not inherently more likely to be allergic to corn, wheat, soy, rice, beef or chicken, etc., but they are more likely to be allergic to common ingredients in foods that they've been fed. Food allergies are also more likely to develop if the dog is fed the same food all the time.

    There can be other problems with certain foods, especially grains. Gluten intolerance can cause digestive problem for some dogs. Sources of gluten include wheat (including Kamut and spelt), barley, rye, and triticale; oats are considered questionable (oats are gluten-free but processed oats can be contaminated with gluten), while buckwheat, corn/maize, and rice are gluten-free. Certain grains can contain molds or storage mites that can cause an allergic reaction. I don't believe that grains should ever be a large part of a dog's diet, but I don't consider corn or wheat to be worse than other grains, unless your dog has a specific problem with these foods. Keep in mind that corn gluten meal is a waste product from the human food industry used as a cheap source of low-quality protein and is a hallmark of a poor quality food.

    I also don't consider it necessary to avoid using products that contain soy, as long as it is a small part of the diet, and used in place of grains or other plant products, rather than as a primary protein source in place of meat. Again, if your individual dog has a problem with soy, then you should avoid foods that use it.

    The following web sites have some interesting information on food allergies and intolerances:

    Food Allergies
    Food Allergy Myths
    Dietary Sensitivity--More Common than You Think?
    The Pet Food Ingredient Game

    High-Protein Diets
    Contrary to many myths and popular beliefs, there is no harm in feeding a high-protein diet to dogs of any age, including puppies (see Large and giant breed puppies below) and seniors (see Senior and overweight dogs below and my article on Diet and the Older Dog for more information). Studies have proven that protein does not cause orthopedic problems in puppies, nor lead to kidney disease in older dogs. In fact, protein is extremely beneficial: it supports the immune system and the central nervous system, contributes to wound healing, helps build lean muscle, and is required for skin and coat health.

    Even most dogs with kidney disease benefit from a moderate-protein rather than low-protein diet (see my Kidney Disease web page for additional info). There are very, very few health conditions where a lower-protein diet is needed, and even then, it's extremely important to feed adequate protein, as protein malnutrition will cause the body to break down its own muscle tissue to get what it needs, leading to muscle wasting and other serious problems. Even mild protein deficiency can significantly impair immune function. Dogs who get too little protein are also more susceptible to stress, including stress from injury or infection.

    Dogs thrive on protein, the more the better. There is absolutely no reason to limit the amount of protein you feed your dog. Look for foods that are high in protein, rather than the typical high-carbohydrate diets that are more commonly available. Dogs have no nutritional need for carbohydrates; they are used in dog food mostly as an inexpensive source of calories (grains are also used to supply low-quality protein in some foods), and to help bind dry food together into kibble. Studies indicate that high-protein, low-carb foods with moderate amounts of fat also help dogs lose weight better than the traditional high-carb, low-fat (and often low-protein) weight loss diets.

    There are a number of newer, high-protein, low-carbohydrate diets now being offered, for both adult and senior dogs. Some of these are also OK for puppies, if approved for them or for all life stages, but be careful of any with very high calcium percentages (best to stick to 2% or less calcium on a dry matter basis for large-breed puppies under the age of six months).

    You can also increase the protein levels in whatever diet you feed by adding some fresh, high-protein foods, such as meat, eggs, yogurt, cottage cheese, and canned fish with bones (jack mackerel, pink salmon, sardines). See Adding Fresh Foods to a Commercial Diet below for more info.

    If you have a dog that is hyper-reactive to outside stimuli, you may be interested in How High Carbohydrate Diets Can Affect Some Dogs by noted behaviorist William Campbell suggesting a possible cause being a high carbohydrate diet.

    Large and giant breed puppies (or any breed prone to hip dysplasia) should be fed a restricted diet to slow growth. Overfeeding encourages them to grow too fast, resulting in most of the bone and joint problems common in large breeds, including dysplasia, osteochondrosis, etc. Limit the amount you feed to keep your pup lean and slow-growing.
    Never give supplemental calcium of any kind when feeding a commercial diet. Feeding an adult food to a puppy may cause excessive calcium intake, as the adult food might have more calcium for the same amount of calories than a puppy food would, while not providing the other nutrients required by puppies.
    You should always feed puppies foods that are approved  either for puppies or for all life stages. If you feed a food that is approved for adult dogs only, there will be inadequate amounts of protein, and improper levels of calcium and other nutrients. Large Breed Puppy Formulas may not be the answer, as they often replace protein with carbohydrates. Protein and carbohydrates contain exactly the same number of calories per gram, so reducing protein in favor of carbohydrates provides less needed nutrition without reducing calories. High protein diets are preferred, as puppies need protein to thrive and studies have shown that high protein does not lead to developmental problems, but high fat diets may contribute too many calories, leading to rapid growth. See the following articles for more information:

    Senior and overweight dogs are often fed foods that are lower in protein and higher in carbohydrates, which is a bad idea. Recent research indicates that older dogs need MORE protein than younger dogs, not less. Carbohydrates provide less nutrition than protein and can lead to weight gain. Feed senior and overweight dogs a diet that is high in protein, with low carbs and moderate amounts of fat (too little fat leaves your dog feeling hungry all the time, which can make it harder for them to lose weight). I have notations below in the lists of recommended foods about which companies offer higher-protein senior and weight loss foods.
    See my article on Diet and the Older Dog and the following articles for more information on this topic:
    Demystifying Myths About Protein
    Fortify The Food Bowl For The Aging Canine
    Pudgy Pups
    High-Protein Low-Carbohydrate Diets Enhance Weight Loss in Dogs
    Effect of amount and type of dietary fiber on food intake in energy-restricted dogs
    Premium Edge Healthy Weight | Weight Reduction Formula
    How four obese dogs lost big weight last month Article from a vet about four dogs who lost weight and who no longer acted hungry all the time by switching to a higher-protein, lower-carbohydrate food

    Prescription Diets While I think many prescription diets are inappropriate (particularly those for struvite crystals and stones), if you do need to feed a prescription diet, IVD (now owned by Royal Canin) appears to be better quality than Purina or Hill's. Since IVD was bought by Royal Canin, these diets no longer appear to carry the IVD name, but can be distinguished from the Royal Canin brand by the use of the word "Formula" in their names, such as "Sensitive Formula" or "Modified Formula". See them listed under "Limited Ingredient Diets" on the Royal Canin Veterinary Diets site. The Royal Canin Hi-Tor diets for special needs may also be better quality than Hill's or Purina, though I'm not as sure of this, they can be found at Waggin' Tails . If your vet does not carry IVD, you can call them at 1-800-466-0912 to find a local distributor so that your veterinarian can then order IVD diets for you. IVD Diets are also available through VetCentric, RxPetFood.com and Prescription Diets. Your vet must approve a prescription for you to be able to order this food for home delivery.
    Wysong has introduced a line of freeze-dried prescription diets for a variety of conditions. These foods can only be ordered through veterinarians.
    Note that prescription diets are not always needed. For example, dogs with liver disease do not need a diet change unless they are showing symptoms of hepatic encephalopathy. Prescription diets for weight loss are high in carbohydrates, which has been shown to be an ineffective method of weight control (see Pudgy Pups for better advice). A prescription diet is not needed for dogs with diabetes -- see the K9Nutrition FAQ for more info; also this article that concludes, "Consumption of diets with low carbohydrate, high protein, and moderate fat content may be advantageous for prevention and management of obesity, impaired glucose tolerance, and diabetes in cats and dogs."
    Check my Specific Conditions and Kidney web pages for more information, as well as the K9Nutrition FAQ, and consider joining an email list to learn more if your veterinarian suggests putting your dog on a prescription diet.

    Melamine and Cyanuric Acid
    As everyone must be aware by now, there was a massive recall of pet foods beginning in March, 2007, due to contaminants that caused kidney failure in death in thousands of pets (see my Recall page for more information). Eventually, the cause was determined to be contamination with melamine and cyanuric acid, ingredients that are often added illegally to foods in China to artificially increase their protein level. Contamination was found first in wheat gluten, then in rice protein concentrate, then in corn gluten (in South Africa), and most recently in chicken jerky, all coming from China. Since that time, most of the better dog food companies have instituted testing for these two substances, and have taken steps to eliminate ingredients sourced from China. Unfortunately, there are a few ingredients that simply cannot be found elsewhere in quantity, including taurine, glucosamine and most B vitamins. Note that companies who say that all of their ingredients come from US companies are being disingenuous, as the original source of some parts could still be China.

    Eagle Pack, whose foods are EU (European Union) certified, which requires disclosure of the country of origin of all ingredients, has this to say: "Due to the global economy and worldwide outsourcing, some ingredients or supplements are not made in the U.S. or are not made in sufficient quantity. Most pet food and human food companies and makers of supplements most likely source some supplements from China. Most B vitamins for human and pet consumption come from China. In our supplements, U.S. vitamin maker BASF sources some vitamins from China. This will be true of the vitamin content for most pet foods you buy and for many pet or human vitamins you use. The Glucosamine we humans take as well as the Glucosamine in your pet’s food most likely is sourced from  China. The same is true for human grade Taurine. Some pet food makers seem unaware that some ingredients of necessity must be sourced from China; scary they don’t know."

    Canned Foods and Refrigerated or Frozen Cooked Foods

    There are several reasons why canned food may be a better choice than kibble if you are feeding your dog a commercial food. First, canned foods contain far fewer chemical additives than dry foods. Artificial colors and flavors are much less common, and preservatives are unnecessary due to the canning process itself (however, this also means that canned food will quickly spoil if left out at room temperature). Second, canned foods generally have much less grain than dry foods. Kibble must be at least 50% carbohydrates  in order to be extruded without gumming up the machinery; canned foods have no such requirement. Fewer carbs also means more protein and fat, both of which are good for dogs. And third, canned food has more moisture, which makes it easier to digest (you can achieve the same result with kibble by soaking it first, but remember that soaked kibble will also spoil quickly if left out at room temperature) and better for the kidneys.

    Here are some of the better canned foods that I have heard about. This is not a complete list of the high quality foods available, which are growing all the time. For a more extensive list, see the Whole Dog Journal, which publishes an article on the best canned foods each January. You can also write to me for comments on any individual food you may be interested in (my email address is at the bottom of the page). I have added links to Amazon as a source for many of these foods if you are unable to find them locally, though shipping will add substantially to the cost.

    Some of these companies offer vegetarian diets, but I believe these are inappropriate and quite dangerous for dogs. I do NOT recommend feeding your dog a vegetarian diet under any circumstances. See Don't Bite on the Veggie Dog and Vegetarian Diets for Dogs? for more information on this topic.

    "All Meat" Diets

    "All meat" diets are not complete, but they may be useful for feeding short-term (up to three months) as an elimination diet to determine whether your dog has food allergies, especially if they use unusual proteins. When you do this, you should feed a food your dog has never had before, and nothing else, including no treats, supplements or chews. See Allergies for more information on elimination diets.

    All meat diets can also be used to supplement dry or canned dog food (as can fresh meat, cooked or raw). If you do this, I would stick to the more common meats rather than feeding exotic proteins, which should be reserved in case they are needed in the future for food allergies. See the section on Adding Fresh Foods below for more info.

    There are two supplements that can be used with all meat diets to provide complete nutrition:

    Wysong (see their Au Jus varieties), Merrick (Before Grain varieties, including Tripe) and Evanger's make all meat canned foods.

    Canine Caviar makes a canned Beaver diet that is nothing but processed beaver meat (from animals harvested to control their population). This company also makes canned Duck, Turkey and Venison Tripe all meat varieties with nothing else added. Beaver variety is available by the case at Whole Pet Foods. Canine Caviar also offers frozen all meat beaver and turkey varieties.

    By Nature, from Blue Seal, offers canned organic all meat chicken and turkey varieties. They also offer these same meats combined with limited vegetables and supplements. The all meat diets are definitely not complete, and there is no mention of meeting AAFCO guidelines even on the varieties that have added veggies and supplements, though they may. These foods contain only 20 kcals per ounce, which is lower than most canned foods, so you'd have to feed more of them. Available from Amazon.

    Tripett offers canned beef and lamb tripe with very little added (just garlic and vegetable gum, plus fish oil and glucosamine/chondroitin in the lamb variety). Warning: tripe smells awful, but dogs love it. Available at SitStay.com and from Amazon.

    PetKind Venison, Duck and Salmon has fish oil added, but is still not a complete diet. Due to having three different proteins plus fish oil, it would not be a good choice to use to test for food allergies. There is no mention of using human-grade ingredients.

    Wellness makes 95% meat formulas designed to be added to kibble (they are not complete diets). They add natural flavors, cassia gum, and carrageenan, which should be avoided if you're trying to feed a true elimination diet to test for food allergies, but are otherwise OK. Varieties include chicken, beef, venison, salmon and turkey.

    Abady (Natural Electives) also makes all meat canned foods, but they do not use human grade ingredients.

    Refrigerated or Frozen Cooked Foods

    Joshua Speed is a new company offering organic frozen cooked foods in two varieties: Grass-Fed Beef Dinner (with pasta) and Free-Range Chicken (with rice). These diets are high in carbohydrates, comparable to traditional dry and canned dog foods, but are made with fresh, organic ingredients. "Formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles for all life stages." Cost is $5 per 1-lb box, plus $8 shipping, no matter how large or small the order is. Currently offering one free box with your first order if you order at least two boxes.

    Country Pet Pet Food is a frozen, cooked diet made from hearts, lungs, livers, kidney, meat and bone from range-raised lamb, beef, chicken and poultry, free of antibiotics and hormones. Also uses eggs, and one variety has a small amount of veggies. No grains. Made in New Zealand and available at some retailers such as Whole Foods. Note that Country Pet is made by Canz, who also make Butch and Real Meat labels. These foods appear similar and it's not clear what the differences are between the three lines. There is no AAFCO nutrition statement, probably because these foods are made in New Zealand. Their shopping site states that both Country Pet and Real Meat are "complete diets" and the Butch site says "All Butch products are made from fresh ingredients including beef, lamb, chicken, fish, eggs and cereals, which are scientifically blended with a range of vitamins and minerals for a perfectly balanced, complete diet for your dog or cat."

    Freshpet makes two fresh (not frozen) refrigerated products: Homestyle Select and Deli Fresh. Both are pasteurized and "gently cooked with minimal heat." Homestyle Select is made of 70% meat and 30% vegetables and grains, while details are not given for Deli Fresh, so it likely contains less meat. No mention of human-grade ingredients. Homestyle Select is available at some Costco stores, and elsewhere. Deli Fresh is available at Petco, PetSmart and other stores.

    Culinary Crossing offers several human-grade diets for adult dogs. These diets are lightly cooked and come refrigerated or frozen. Available from PetFoodDirect.com but is very expensive due to shipping cost.

    Dry Foods (Kibble and Dehydrated)

    Here are some of the better dry foods that I have heard about. This is not a complete list of the high quality foods available, which are growing all the time. For a more extensive list, see the Whole Dog Journal, which publishes an article on the best dry  foods every February. You can also write to me for comments on any individual food you may be interested in (my email address is at the bottom of the page). I have added links to Amazon as a source for many of these foods if you are unable to find them locally, though shipping will add substantially to the cost. Remember, there is no "best" diet, and I believe it's better to switch foods periodically rather than to always feed the same thing. Find three or four foods that your dog likes and does well with, that meet the criteria for being very high quality, and rotate among them, making the change gradually if your dog is prone to gastric upset. Add some fresh foods to the diet to further improve the quality.

    Dehydrated Foods

    Addiction ~ Offers raw dehydrated foods as well as regular dry foods. See above under Dry Foods for more information.

    N-R-G ~ Dehydrated Canadian pet food, uses free range human grade meats. Limited availability but can be found here.

    ZiwiPeak ~ New Zealand dehydrated food made from human-grade, free-range, antibiotic- and hormone-free meats. Products are 85% meat-based and are grain-free with little or no carbs. Limited ingredients, may be good for dogs with food allergies. Also good for use as training treats. Widely available online; "Where to Buy" link indicates it is available at limited locations in the US, Canada, Europe, Asia, Australia and New Zealand. Also offers a canned version. Available from Amazon.

    SEE ALSO: Dog Food Mixes below for dehydrated foods designed to be mixed with fresh foods. Some of the Frozen Raw Food Products (widely available and local) also offer freeze-dried versions.

    Soaking Kibble It is best to soak any kibble in warm water or broth (watch out for too much sodium), to help with digestion. Soaking dry food in heated water for 10-15 minutes starts breaking down the binders in the kibble, releasing some of its tasty fat and flavoring and cutting down the time it takes the stomach to break it down for its trip through the small intestine. Note that once dry food has been soaked in water, it cannot be left out or it will go bad, so this can only be done with food the dog eats right away. Also, the Purdue Bloat Study showed a link between soaking kibble that contains citric acid and bloat, something to be aware of if your dog is deep chested or from a breed prone to bloat. Contrary to popular belief, hard kibble does NOT keep teeth clean. See the following articles for more info:


    SUPPLEMENTS

    Following are several commonly recommended supplements. However, you may want to consider supplementing your commercial diet with food, rather than (or in addition to) vitamin supplements. See the section below on Foods Used to Supplement a Commercial Diet for more information.
    1. Fish Oil or Salmon Oil: An important source of Omega-3 essential fatty acids. Omega-3 EFAs are beneficial to the immune system, the nervous system, the heart, and help stop inflammation, such as in arthritis and allergies. They also support brain development of puppies and fetuses. This is probably the most important supplement to give, no matter what you feed, as Omega-3 EFAs are hard to find even in a natural diet, and are highly perishable when exposed to heat, light or air, so they do not survive in commercial foods even if added. Omega-3 EFAs are found in fish body oil, not liver oil. They are also found in flax seed oil, although that form is not as well utilized and some dogs can be allergic to flax. Recommended amount is 1000 mg fish oil (containing 300 mg combined EPA/DHA) per 30 pounds (14 kg) of body weight. Maximum dosage for dogs with health problems would be 1000 mg fish oil (300 mg EPA/DHA) per 10 pounds (4.5 kg) of body weight. You can also use sardines in place of fish oil supplements; one small sardine supplies over 100 mg EPA/DHA. Vitamin E should also be given whenever oils are supplemented (even small amounts are adequate, but highest recommended dosage would be 100 IU per day for small dogs, 200 IU for medium-sized dogs, and 400 IU for large dogs). Note that fish oil is not the same as cod liver oil, which is high in vitamins A and D. Never add cod liver oil to a commercial diet, as they are already high in vitamin D, and too much is harmful.
    2. Probiotics: Probiotics are the beneficial bacteria that live in the intestines and help control yeast and harmful bacteria, as well as helping with digestion and intestinal health. These friendly bacteria are destroyed whenever antibiotics are given, and can also be flushed out of the system if your dog has diarrhea. It is recommended to use probiotics for six months following any antibiotic usage. Dogs that are under stress or that have digestive problems or problems with yeast (usually manifested as itchy skin, ear infections, and chewing at feet) may benefit from routine probiotic supplementation. A supplement that contains multiple bacterial strains is preferable to those that have only a single strain (usually acidophilus). There are two strains that have been found to be particularly beneficial for dogs: Lactobacillus sporogenes (see dosage recommendations for dogs here) and Enterococcus faecium (found in many supplements, including Jarrow Formulas Pet Dophilus and Berte's Ultra Probiotic Powder). Supplements that also contain prebiotics, which are foods that nourish the beneficial bacteria themselves, such as FOS (fructooligosaccharides), chicory (found in Ark Naturals Gentle Digest and others), inulin, and larch (arabinogalactin -- see dosage for dogs here) may be especially helpful to dogs with diarrhea. You can use products made for dogs, or human-grade probiotics that you would find in a health food store. Kefir, which is easy to make at home, is also a good source of beneficial bacteria. Plain yogurt can also be used, though most brands contain only acidophilus. Most probiotics must be kept refrigerated.
    3. Vitamins: Although commercial foods include a minimal supply of added vitamins (the original ones are destroyed by processing), supplementing can be beneficial, especially vitamins E, C (with bioflavonoids), and B-complex. Unfortunately, most pet multi-vitamins, such as Pet Tabs, contain too little of anything to be very useful. For the most part, I don't recommend supplementing minerals, other than small amounts of selenium, except in whole food form, due to the potential for overdosing or not using proper combinations (for example, zinc can be dangerous if given in large quantities or not properly balanced with copper). Vitamin D should also not be added to a commercial diet. See below for some recommended brands.
    4. Digestive Enzymes: Since enzymes are destroyed by cooking, commercial foods are enzyme dead. Adding digestive enzymes may be beneficial if your dog suffers from digestive disorders, liver problems, pancreatitis, or is otherwise unhealthy and may benefit from getting additional nutritional value from their food. Digestive enzymes should be given about 20-30 minutes before feeding to be effective. Animal-based enzymes, such as protease and lipase, help more with the breakdown of nutrients, while plant-based enzymes, such as bromelain and papain, seem to help more with gas and inflammation.
    Whole Food vs Synthetic supplements: Whole food supplements use beneficial foods and herbs rather than synthetic vitamins. Green blends are whole food supplements that include primarily green foods, such as kelp, alfalfa, spirulina, etc. I think that whole food supplements may be especially good for dogs fed a commercial diet, since those diets already have synthetic vitamins added, but it is hard to quantify the benefits of whole food supplements since little in the way of measurable nutrients will show up on a nutritional analysis. Synthetic supplements generally offer much higher amounts of vitamins. If you want to provide high dosages of vitamin C, for example, you will have to rely on synthetic supplements to do so. Synthetic supplements that include minerals or vitamin D may be too much when feeding a commercial diet, as these can be overdosed.

    Here are some examples of supplements that may be beneficial, listed in alphabetical order by category. It is not necessary to use more than one of these at a time, but doing so should cause no problems. If you like more than one, you might want to alternate using them daily or weekly, particularly for those which contain herbs, such as Hokamix , as herbs may lose their effectiveness if given continuously, better to give off and on. Just as with diet, providing variety by rotating between different supplements is preferable to always using the same one.

    Whole Food Formulas:

    Green blends: Multiple nutritional formulas (using synthetic ingredients; may also have some whole food ingredients): Please be sure that any supplement containing ground Flax Seed or oils is kept refrigerated, as it will go rancid otherwise.

    For more information on supplements for all diets, see Vitamins and Supplements and http://www.critterchat.net/vet5.htm
    Also check out The Canine Vitamin Advisor, lots of info on vitamins and herbs tailored to your specific dog.

    See Shopping for Dog Supplements for some information on how to identify better brands. This article refers to NASC members, which you can see here (click on Member List). For the most part, of the names that I recognize, I agree that these are good companies, with a few noted exceptions: I do not recommend Hartz Mountain products, some of which have been investigated and recalled by the FDA, and Consumer Labs recently found that Nutri-Vet joint supplements had far less glucosamine and chondroitin than specified on the label. I also have some reservations about Sergeant's Pet Care Products.

    See the section on Dog Food Mixes below for supplements that can be added to incomplete homemade diets to help balance them and make them complete.

    Click here for my web page on diet and supplements for specific medical conditions. Here are additional supplements I've seen recommended for specific needs:


    ADDING FRESH FOODS TO A COMMERCIAL DIET

    It is a great idea to add some fresh foods to a commercial diet, to improve the quality of nutrition that your dog receives. As long as you feed at least half kibble, you don't need to worry too much about balancing the foods you add, though as always I think variety is best. The more fresh food you feed, the more important it is to provide a variety of foods in appropriate proportions in order to maintain a balanced diet (see Balancing a Homemade Diet below for more information).

    It is generally better to add animal protein sources rather than plant foods (grains, legumes and vegetables), since commercial diets are usually high in carbs and dogs have no nutritional need for them, while protein provides a number of benefits (see High-Protein Diets above for more information). Animal source proteins, including eggs, meat, organs and dairy are the best foods to add. If you are feeding a large percentage of homemade food, then it's OK to add some carbs, such as pasta, oatmeal, sweet potatoes, etc., but animal products should always be at least half what you add.

    Most dogs do fine when fresh foods, whether raw or cooked, are added to commercial diets, but a few may have problems. If your dog develops diarrhea or any other digestive problems when you add fresh foods, try feeding the two types of food separately. You can also experiment with different foods and different ways of preparing them -- some dogs may do better with raw food, for example, while others do best when the food is cooked.

    Here are foods you can add to a commercial diet:

    For more information on foods to add to kibble and getting started with a more natural diet, see Mixing Fresh Food with Kibble

    Recreational bones can help keep the teeth clean, avoid gum disease, and provide a great deal of chewing pleasure and exercise. I like to give large beef ribs, and take them away once all the meat has been removed, but these bones may be consumed by larger dogs and more aggressive chewers. Knuckle bones are good recreational bones, especially for large dogs. Marrow bones are OK but can be a problem if the dog can get them between their molars and crunch down, as they are very hard and can cause broken teeth. The marrow is also very rich and may cause diarrhea (you can scoop some of it out with a spoon before feeding to help). Bones get harder as they dry out, so to avoid problems with broken teeth, it's better to take the bones away after a reasonable amount of time (anything from a few hours to a day or two). Bones should always be fed raw, as cooked bones become hard and brittle, which can be dangerous if consumed.

    Foods to Avoid or Restrict
    While most foods safe for people are also safe for dogs, there are a few notable exceptions. Here are some foods you should not feed your dog:

    The following foods should be restricted:

    DOG FOOD MIXES

    Here are some dog food mixes that are meant to be combined with meat, eggs, cottage cheese, and other ingredients that you add. Note that some of these say they are complete diets, but I think all benefit from added fresh protein sources. Also, a few say that they can be fed as a vegetarian diet, which I do NOT agree with (see Don't Bite on the Veggie Dog for more info on this topic).

    These foods appear to provide a complete diet when fresh foods are added per instructions:

    These foods have less nutritional information, and I wouldn't rely on them to provide a complete diet, but they'd be fine to feed on occasion or for a limited time: Note that there are several vitamin/mineral products now available to balance out all meat or limited homemade diets:

    RAW FOOD PRODUCTS (Frozen and Freeze-Dried)

    There are fresh (frozen) raw food diets available. A few are complete diets, others offer different mixtures that you can use to create a complete diet, some just offer part of the diet, such as ground or whole raw meaty bones, which you would need to combine with other foods at home in order to create a complete diet (see Balancing a Homemade Diet below for more info on how to ensure that you're feeding a complete diet). Most are pretty expensive, especially when shipping costs are figured in, they work better if you can find a local source (or have small dogs!). Here are some that are widely available (see below for local sources):

    Widely available complete raw diets (meeting AAFCO guidelines):